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Pierre Troisgros, a legend of French gastronomy, has passed away

After Paul Bocuse in January 2018 and Joël Robuchon in August 2018, another big name in French gastronomy has just died. Born September 3, 1929 in Chalon-sur-Saône, Pierre Troisgros passed away on Wednesday September 23. He was 92 years old.

Trained with his parents Jean-Baptiste and Marie Troisgros, who had taken over a small restaurant in the Place de Roanne in 1930, along the emblematic Nationale 7, Pierre Troisgros then passed through beautiful Parisian houses, such as the Crillon and the Lucas Cardboard, where he meets his great friend Paul Bocuse. Before returning to Roanne in the 1950s, where he won a first star in 1955.

With his brother Jean (specialist in sauces) and his father in the dining room, Pierre Troisgros has transformed the family table into a real institution. Renamed The Troisgros Brothers in 1957, the restaurant won a second star in 1965 and the third in 1968 (which it has never lost since). Before being sacred, three years later, “Best restaurant in the world” by Christian Millau.

New Cuisine Star

It is indeed to the Gault & Millau guide that we owe the launch, in 1973, of New Cuisine, of which Pierre and Jean Troisgros will be, with Alain Sanderens, Alain Chapel and Michel Guérard, the main representatives. In particular thanks to a dish that is emblematic of the movement, because it is imbued with simplicity: salmon with sorrel, imagined by the Troisgros brothers in 1962. A dish so linked to the history of the restaurant that during a visit to François Mitterrand in the 80s in Roanne, the mayor of the city, Jean Auroux, decided to repaint the station in the colors… “salmon with sorrel”!

A must-see for the stars on the holiday route (from Brel to Hallyday, via Gainsbourg or Coluche), The Troigros Brothers are struck by the sudden death, during a tennis game in 1983, of Jean Troigros. Pierre is then joined in the kitchen by his son Michel.

Now installed in a completely renovated farm in Ouches, 8 km east of Roanne, The Troisgros House, where César, the fourth generation of Troisgros, now officiates in the kitchens, continues to make one of the most legendary names in French gastronomy shine. Too bad the new generation has wiped out the great classics of the house, including salmon with sorrel …

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